Tonkotsu St James

The sophisticated big sister of the chilled out Tonkotsu group, which sparked London’s obsession with ramen, sprawls across a prime space in the West End’s new St James’ Market development.

While the interiors may be more formal than usual Tonkotsu restaurants (think blonde wood and an impressive collection of decorative sake bottles), the 16-hour pork broth in their signature tonkotsu ramen is as unctuous, comforting and decadent as ever.

Other options include cooling ramen salad laced with zingy ponzu dressing and gyoza dumplings, freshly made every day and fried until golden, alongside small plates like sweet potato korokke

Perch at the long wine bar for sake, hip beers from microbreweries and interesting Japanese versions of classic cocktails. Expect Negronis made with fragrant cherry blossom tea that evokes Kyoto in springtime and Old Fashioneds infused with wakame seaweed.