Wild Heart by Garry Hollihead

Wild Heart by Garry Hollihead brings a confident, umami-forward sensibility to Soho marrying clarity of flavour with a contemporary ease. Its name signals intent: cooking that is poised rather than precious, where finesse is worn lightly and ingredients do the talking.

The journey begins with small plates that set a clean, saline tempo, think vegetable gyoza with supple bite, or tuna tataki lifted by truffle dressing, pickled cucumber and a sea vegetable salad. Mains follow with equal composure: chicken teriyaki paired with steamed Japanese rice, spring onions and pickled ginger, and a dry aged sirloin steak given a subtle kick of gochujang, with fine green beans and nori tempura for texture. Even the sides show restraint and wit, from simple steamed Japanese rice to skinny fries dusted with wasabi furikake.

To finish, comfort finds a modern accent. Winter Mess layers pear and apple compote with vanilla cream cheese, yogurt and honey, while pecan pie arrives rich and golden, matched with clotted cream ice cream. It is an experience designed for the city’s rhythm, unhurried yet assured, flavour-led and quietly indulgent.

Set your sights on Wild Heart, settle in, and let appetite chart the course a little London wanderlust, served on a plate.