Ark Fish Restaurant

Ark Fish Restaurant brings a clear-eyed devotion to the fruits of the sea to South Woodford. Classic in spirit yet quietly modern in detail, its kitchen lets pristine fish do the talking, augmenting the plate with bright, well-judged accents rather than theatrics.

The opening notes are reassuringly timeless: Irish oysters, sharpened with shallot mignonette, lemon and a dash of Tabasco; smoked salmon with brown bread and lemon, as it should be. Mains move with a confident hand between comfort and lift — cod set against roasted cauliflower, pomegranate, raisins and almonds for sweetness and crunch, or seared salmon with crushed potatoes, garden peas and a silky cream sauce.

Sides keep things simple and satisfying, from chips or mash to new potatoes and a mixed salad. To drink, choose an Espresso Martini or a Margarita, or explore an easy-going cellar that spans whites like Verdejo and Pinot Grigio to reds such as Sangiovese and Rioja, alongside soft drinks and juices, and a full complement of spirits.

For those who crave clear flavours and honest cooking, this is a table worth seeking out. Book in, settle back, and let the tide bring the good stuff in.