Swadish by Ajay Kumar

In Merchant City, Glasgow, Swadish by Ajay Kumar sets its compass to the subcontinent, presenting contemporary Indian cookery with a cosmopolitan wink. The cooking moves with assurance between coastal brightness and slow, heady comfort, drawing threads from Kashmir to Chettinad and beyond. It is a kitchen that favours clarity of flavour and clean lines, letting spice speak in measured tones rather than a shout.

The journey opens with the crisp crackle of poppadoms and a trio of chutneys before stepping into curried mussels and crispy kekda, where the sea meets spice. Mains run from the velvet of dal makhni to the dark intrigue of Chettinad duck, while Delhi butter chicken and roe deer korma cater to those torn between comfort and curiosity. Banana leaf sea bream and Konkani halibut keep the shoreline close; plain naan and boondi raita do the quiet, essential work at the table. A cooling mango lassi draws a gentle curtain.

The result is a considered, modern feast set against the hum of Merchant City, ideal for unhurried suppers and spirited catch-ups. It invites a slow amble along the spice trail, one course at a time. Guests can book a table and let Glasgow meet India, deliciously so.